photo of goodyear handwelted
所謂的 固特異結構 包含兩層縫線。第一層縫線將沿條與鞋面及中底縫合；第二層縫線將沿條與大底縫合。「固特異」這個詞取名自十九世紀將內線機、也就是機器縫製沿條的方法推入高峰的固特異先生。在此之前，這樣兩層縫線的作法已行之有年，由訓練有素的鞋匠們手工縫製完成。
此內線機改良了長久以來的 #手縫製法，以 #機器縫製。從原有的厚實中底革挖溝，改良成帆布組合的牆面黏合至較薄型中底，製造出能夠讓機器針鉤穿入的縫紉層。十九世紀內線機的發明增加了量產速度，讓製鞋產業來到嶄新的巔峰。為了紀念這偉大的發明，人們也用固特異這個名稱來稱呼這樣的結構，即便「固特異先生跟創造這個結構製法沒有關連。」
鞋機器的發明固然縮短了製成卻也在改良時降低了用料品質、成本與技術門檻。只有少數鞋匠仍承襲著 古老技法，手工縫製固特異，也成就了現今所謂的高訂製手工鞋，一路保存下來 ...
#Goodyear construction consist of two layers stitches by the name to memorize Mr. Goodyear and his team whom put #welted machinary into high peak in the late 19th century. Before that, The same way was constructed by experienced shoemakers with their hand instead of stitching by machine.
A classic Goodyear construction should include two layers stitches: First one, welt with insole and the upper. Second one, welt and the outsole. Hence, following the definition of Goodyear construction, both machinary and handmade are "Goodyear construction" yet, there are actually two versions of so call Goodyear shoes in the market. That's why sometimes we see both Goodyear construction shoes but the price and produce time are so such different.
Shiau Atelier's shoes are all #handwelted shoes as we believe the power of handmade and our heart to preserve traditional culture.
匠心。
Piano piano fare perfetto.
Slowly slowly make it perfect.
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