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作家相片Shiau Atelier


所謂的 #手開暗溝 的技法,是將極薄的表面grain用刀子翻起,縫製後的線會被埋在皮革表面下,藏起手縫線。這個古老的技法源自好幾世紀前的歐洲,至今為 #高訂製手工鞋 的指標之一,一直沿用到現在。


還記得自己第一次握著製鞋刀,跟著義大利的老師傅學製鞋,試著揣摩各種進刀角度。"Fare cosi, fare cosi. Brava brava." - 教授在旁指導著我,看起來比我還緊張;大概是刀子太鋒利,一個閃神就有可能前功盡棄,或者,劃破吹彈可破的肌膚。"Faccio cosi, faccio cosi. Ho ricordato bene" - 邊製鞋邊拾起記憶中的片段。“教授,不用擔心,每個步驟與叮嚀,我都深深地銘記在心。



This is an old technique that hiding thread inside sole leather. Shoemakers cutting slice of grain with bare hand and a big knife. Not cutting through it, instead, remaining only a very thin thin layer on the top. It is one of iconic process in high-end #handwelted shoes indeed.


I remembered when I first holding my knife, trying to figure out the right position under my Italian Maestro's guidance. It was a nervous moment but I was so excited to try it out. "Fare cosi, fare cosi. Brava brava." - Maestro patiently guided me on the side, he seems more nervous than I was. The knife we use for shoemaking was very sharp, it could easily shave a slice of leather, so do humans'.


“Faccio cosi, faccio cosi. Ho ricordato bene"- No worries maestro, I remembered it all well.

Following this old Italian way making a pair, and now, I am working on my own.

Every little piece of memories has come to me, now and then...


 

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